Don’t be put off by the vaguely rustic and rather dim décor of this small restaurant hidden behind a church: for gourmets in the know, this might be the best eatery in Paris. Thierry Breton’s brilliant home-cooking, loosely based on his native Brittany, never ceases to startle, as he unveils his ever-changing, seasonal creations on a large blackboard.

This spring, he’s put the accent on local fish and fresh vegetables: stripped skate with poached green peas and beans, sea bass with a ragoût of fava beans and baby onions, roasted farm chicken with white asparagus and morels, pressed eel with foie gras and green apple, parmesan and tuna belly shortbread... On the regular, year-round menu, his staples include the Kig ha farz Breton for a vibrant stew of pork cheeks and fragrant vegetables (not served in summer), the Saint-Malo craquelins, a pastry stuffed with basil and fresh goat cheese, and impeccable desserts such as the rice pudding, the Paris Brest, or the typical (and wonderfully buttery) Kouign Amann.

Chez Michel, 10 Rue de Belzunce, 75010 Paris. Tel: 01 44 53 06 20. Closed Saturdays, Sundays, and lunch on Mondays . 30 € for a 3-course menu (plus extras for daily specials). Reservations recommended.