By Anna Krzyzanowska

Hanging in the window of the workshop is the macabre sight of a naked broken doll: no foot, no knee, no arm and, more disturbingly, no face. The inside of the skull of this once-beautiful doll is exposed, revealing a metal pole that keeps the staring eyeballs in place. It’s hard to imagine this was once the pride and joy of some little girl, or that it may one day be coveted by a collector.

Located under the Viaduc des Arts, a long row of artisan ateliers under the arches of the Promenade Plantée, “Automates et Poupées” is home to a vast array of antique dolls, automatons (mechanical dolls), teddy bears, and musical boxes. Here, for more than 10 years, Sylviane Dugas and Camille Guillebert have been buying, selling, and restoring dolls.

On repair © A. Krzyzanowska

The treasures in the shop attest to the restoration skills of these craftsmen: three life-size figures with deer heads wear 18th century gold brocaded costumes and mechanically play the double bass at regular intervals as a child-size wolf plays the violin; pristine dolls with uniform ringlets, rouged cheeks and rosebud lips stare blankly with fixed smiles and unblinking eyes (actually that’s not strictly true: many of them close their eyes when laid on their back…).

Most of the dolls here are not toys, their buyers being mainly collectors and museums rather than passers-by. Little wonder when you consider the values involved: a snake charmer automaton restored here six years ago went on to sell for a whopping 1.2m francs (over €180,000) when auctioned at Sotheby’s. Still, the shop is worth a browse, if only to admire the handiwork.

Automates et Poupées, 97, rue Daumesnil, Paris 12. Mº Gare de Lyon. 01 43 42 22 33. www.automatesetpoupees.fr