Passers-by on the rue saint Paul beware. Above the doorway to number 11 a disembodied arm stretches out a hand in greeting, whilst an enchanted pen hovers above, scratching out a single command: “Entrez.” Obey and you’ll find an intriguing cavern of curiosities awaits at the foot of the red-carpeted stairs: The Musée de la Magie.

Housed in a 16th century cellar, its atmosphere is at once eerie and romantic. Exhibits move unexpectedly of their own accord—a painting of a positively demoniacal looking wizard, his mouth gaping mid-incantation, rapidly flicks out and retracts a pair of wings before one is quite sure of what has happened. Tucked in a corner of a low passageway a gipsy automaton slowly grinds her head back and forth. Insert one euro into the slot and she’ll tell your fortune—if you dare, for, as the exhibition explains, magicians have been accused of dabbling in the dark arts since the Middle Ages. The garish antique publicity posters that line the walls exploit this reputation, implicitly linking the magical and diabolical. One depicts the Grand Illusioniste Rumer caught in the swirl of his red robe, his fingers tapered like claws.

The museum has a fascinating array of conjurer’s tricks and props dating from different periods, including the first ever self-opening door, designed by Robert Houdin in the mid 18th century. Houdin, as the guide proudly informs visitors in his booming baritone, was a genius who invented many famous tricks using his mechanical expertise—Houdini named himself in homage to this French master.

The real fun of the museum, however, begins in its back chambers. Filled with old amusements, such as the “machine of doing nothing” and “The Lion’s Tongue,” these rooms echo with the delighted shrieks of kids—and adults—trying out the antiquated contraptions.

Best of all, there is a live conjuring act, guaranteed to hold the audience rapt: Even for a generation raised on special effects movies and computer games, there’s no magic quite like the old magic.

Weds, Sat & Sun 2-7pm. Open daily during school holidays (not summer). €7-9.
Musée de la Magie, 11, rue saint Paul, Paris 4. Mº Saint Paul. 01 42 72 13 26. www.museedelamagie.com