Join the treasure hunt at Paris’s two great flea markets
Of course there are gift coupons. But what about that mysterious object burnished by the decades that catches your eye and whose unfinished story depends on your bargaining skills—in French! Now, this is a worthwhile present.
Popular for the quality of their goods and atmosphere, two permanent flea markets in Paris—the marchés aux puces de Vanves and Saint-Ouen—started over a century ago, when ragmen and housebreakers fetched discarded objects from the streets of Paris to sell. By the end of the 19th century, the sellers organized into official markets and became professional dealers.
To enter Saint-Ouen, the world’s largest antiques market, is to discover a micro-universe with its own rules and languages. Saint-Ouen covers seven hectares with 2,500 dealers and accommodates 120,000 visitors on weekends, including connoisseurs, famous decorators, movie stars, and politicians.
The partly roofed hive is organized around the rue des Rosiers, which leads to separate sub-markets. At number 99, the wonderful winding Marché Vernaison is a bric-a-brac heaven, offering everything from furniture to textiles, paintings, beads and toys. Another treasure trove and a favorite with professionals is Biron (number 85). The newest market, Dauphine (140), specializes in expert-certified goods, from rare books to corsets to industrial art. Located in the former garage of the first Citroën dealer, Serpette (110) is renown for fashionable goods and high-quality—and expensive—art nouveau. Also fashionable is Paul Bert (96), where 220 dealers present an enormous selection of bistro furniture, kitchen goods, vintage clothing, Renaissance objects, and 1950’s furniture. For oversized items—monumental staircases, garden pavilions, castle gates—head to L’Entrepot (80). At 3, rue Paul Bert, 10 stalls specialize in lighting fixtures, gorgeous Art Deco items, glasswork and bronze. Search for unusual collectibles at Jules Vallès, 7-9, rue Jules Vallès.
At the other end of town is the less overwhelming, but nonetheless excellent, Vanves market. The 380 merchants—all professionals—unfold tables along the boulevards, displaying vintage clothing, antique tableware, Art Deco lighting fixtures, jewelry, books, postcards, religious objects, toys….
At both markets, bring cash: vendors seldom accept credit cards and it makes bargaining easier (as well as pick pocketing, notably in Saint-Ouen).
Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen, Sat – Mon. 7.30 am to 6pm.
between Porte de Clignancourt and Porte de St Ouen, Paris 18. M° Porte de Clignancourt. www.parispuces.com
Marché aux puces de Vanves. Sat. and Sunday, from 7 am to 1pm, until 3 pm on avenue Georges Lafenestre.
Avenues Georrge-Lafenestre and Marc Sangnier, Paris 14. M° Porte de Vanves. www.pucesdevanves.typepad.com
