Being a vegan or even a vegetarian in the capital of jambon-beurre is not just gastronomically challenging, it can also be socially and psychologically trying. Memories of bringing personal provisions of tofu to a French Christmas dinner or trying to order a café crème with soymilk haunt expat vegans as they struggle to integrate into a society of meat and cheese lovers. Facing yet another salade verte, some have even been known to succumb to a tantalizing morsel of foie gras or an innocent forkful of chèvre chaud.

Fear not! Such dietary transgressions are no longer necessary!

Not only can non-meat-eaters indulge in the smorgasbord of delectable vegetarian dishes offered at countless Indian, Italian, and Lebanese restaurants, but now dining in can also be a sinfully easy and appetizing affair. Organic brands like Bjorg, Jardin BIO’, and their generic equivalents have gradually overtaken entire aisles of Paris grocery stores with tasty ready-made meals, sauces, and desserts. Confidently stride past rows of pâtés, crème liquide, and LU biscuits and stock up instead on Bjorg veggie spreads and Jardin BIO’ chocolate sandwich cookies. A trip to the nearest bio (organic) store and an hour of peeling, chopping, and steaming are no longer de rigueur. The selection of vegan ravioli (Jardin BIO’), tajines (Sojasun), and lentils and rice (Saveurs du Liban) available at Monoprix alone make a delicious meatless meal a microwave zap away.

The increased availability of international products has also made more “exotic” vegetarian cuisine affordable. Shoppers in search of authentic Asian spices or Middle Eastern condiments need no longer drain their cartes bleues at specialty markets or La Grande Épicerie de Paris. Grandes surfaces like Carrefour at the Porte d’Auteuil now boast an impressive selection of flavors from around the world at competitive prices, winning over veggie-skeptical taste buds with vegetarian chili with a dab of spicy pureed peppers or pizza sauce (try adding a dollop or two of creamy tahini).

For those who doubt the versatility and tastiness of vegetarian cuisine, Louise Hagler dispels all qualms with 120 sweet and savory recipes in Tofu Quick and Easy, also published in French (La Plage, 1999). From cheesecake and pecan pie to enchiladas and stroganoff, Hagler entices the vegetarian chef while remaining refreshingly simple. For example, her recipe for tofu burgers also doubles as the base of two other dishes: spaghetti “meat” balls and “meat” loaf. Even guests partial to steak frites won’t be asking, “Where’s the beef?,” after a bite of sautéed tofu goodness sandwiched between meaty slices of tomato, juicy rings of purple onion, fresh lettuce, and tangy Dijon.

Sure, butter and cream make everything taste good. But where is the challenge? Anyone can make palates water and mouths quiver with the rich smells and tastes of butter, cheese, and eggs, but it takes imagination to achieve those results by other means. Margarine not only gives croissants ordinaries their je ne sais quoi: it also makes pies and casseroles bake to golden perfection. As for eggs, try substituting a tablespoon of vinegar and a teaspoon of baking soda—your cakes will rise smugly to the occasion in no time.

Useful websites
- http://vegweb.com
- www.cuisine-vegetarienne.com
- www.laplage.fr
- www.vegguide.org

Tofu Burgers
from Tofu Quick & Easy by Louise Hagler (© Book Publishing Company, 2001).

Yield: 8 burgers

Mix together in a bowl:
1 pound (500 g) regular or firm tofu, mashed or crumbled
½ cup (80 g) oatmeal
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup (80 g) wheat germ
2 tablespoons onion powder
1 teaspoon basil or oregano
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
½ teaspoon garlic powder (optional)

Shape into 8 burgers and brown in:
2 tablespoons oil
Serve on buns with all the fixings.

Spaghetti Tofu Balls: Shape the mix into 20 balls, and carefully brown in oil.

Tofu Loaf: Press the mix into an oiled loaf pan, top with ¼ cup (50 ml) ketchup, and bake at 180°C for about 30 minutes. Let it cool for about 10 minutes before slicing. This makes good sandwiches, cold or reheated.